“The thinking goes that ambitious chefs tend to bypass breakfast in order to focus their creative energy — and budgets — on lunch and dinner service, where they have more freedom to offer original dishes. (Nobody’s in the mood for culinary ingenuity at 8 a.m. on a Tuesday.) That seems to be changing, however, as more chefs and owners embrace the all-day-café model, kicking off with breakfast service and moving right through dinner.”

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